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Perfume Magazine Brand Consultant: Tim Girvin
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Welcome to the November Issue of The Perfume Magazine. In this issue, we explore the world of Men’s Fragrances with the underlying question: “What, exactly, should a man smell like?”
For most of us today, it would be difficult to imagine a department store without 2 different fragrance counters, one for the men, and one for the women. But at what point in the history of fragrance did we take a giant turn toward gender-identity? The very idea of a scent being strictly “masculine” is barely 130 years old. Yet, Perfume is an art form that pre-dates Ancient Egypt, spanning more than 4 millenniums. Consider that for the overwhelming majority of that timeframe, it was entirely acceptable for a man and a woman to share a fragrance. But… a man wearing a flower? Indeed, it was the Roman Emperor Nero who reportedly had an entire lake filled with rose petals just so he could take a little swim. And by the 18th Century – it was commonplace for a man to be doused with just about anything that simply smelled good, be it jasmine or rosemary.
Perhaps, though, men should have an olfactory signature of their very own? We certainly make no judgment. Without a doubt, in the past Century, the Modern Male has been conditioned, possibly beyond regression through advertising to believe that there is a set list of particular pungencies that he should smell like. If I’m honest – I think he smells very good in them. While it is perfectly acceptable for a man to smell like one of any number of mega-selling masculine fragrances, (Acqua di Gio, Eternity, Cool Water) there is an opportunity, now more than ever, for the Modern Male to branch out, take a bit of a risk, and seek out a signature of his very own. Food for thought.
This issue features debut works from several new Contributors including Tim Girvin, Nicola Pozzani, Deirdre McLaughlin, Ben Gentzler, and Francesc Montejo Torrell. We also feature a great variety of newGiveaways!To enter any of these Giveaways, you must become a registered member of The Perfume Magazine Forums. Please feel free to sign our guest book by clicking on the link under the banner and show us the love. Be sure to tell your friends about The Perfume Magazine and, of course, you’re welcome to subscribe here for free. We also invite you to join us on Facebook and Twitter to receive updates in the quickest form. In the meantime we also welcome our new advertisers, Molton Brown and Elements Showcase NY. We are honored to be partnering with Elements Showcase and look forward to attending the event in New York City in January.
MARK DAVID BOBERICK / Managing Editor
Director of Men's Fragrances
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With beautiful photographs from unique and iconic perfume bottles, vintage and modern day advertisements, and featuring big name houses and characters, The Essence of Perfume is an ideal gift for anyone with an interest in beauty, fashion, perfume and design.
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When my son turned twelve or thirteen years of age, I began seeing a few bottles of men’s fragrance appear on the shelves in his room. On weekends I would smell the scent of the more popular brands wafting towards me as he beelined toward the door on his way to weekend fun: Curve, Aramis, Axe. I was thoroughly delighted because the two other members of my immediate family, my husband and older son, had no interest whatsoever in men’s cologne and aftershave. The world of scent did not call to them. Here, finally, was an heir to my love of fine perfume in all its subtle articulations. I was thrilled with the idea of introducing him to a classic fragrance...
A Scent for my Son
A Fragrance Profile
There are those that might propose that any man being preoccupied with the idea of scent is a fool. What comes to mind is the self-styled buck that gets on the elevator wafting a broad dose of Polo. Or the hyper-sensitive aesthete who waxes poetic about the candles burning scent notes in a cloistered hall. What that idea -- that dream -- proffers is the buy-in to another imagined, or an aspired-to, world.
Scent reaches to two distinct provinces in the imagination -- the intertwinement of memory and place. So what might the definitive scents of man be? Luca Turin has some specific thoughts on that front -- a collection of the best amalgams...
SCENT OF MAN
Exploring the Place of Masculine Fume
Gentlemen, let’s face it, a bar of soap and some deodorant isn’t cutting it anymore. Did it ever though, really?
You probably already knew that and just didn’t know where to start. Perhaps you’re looking for some new things to add to your daily (or “when I remember to”) routine. Whatever the case may be...
Men’s skin is 20% - 30% thicker than women’s skin, and produces more oil. Skincare for men is developed to specifically target their unique needs...
The Best Of: Men's Grooming
An Interview With
Mark David Boberick
With a background in Architecture and Historic Preservation from universities in Mexico City, Spain, and New York City, Carlos Huber has taken his longtime love of fragrance, applied his other loves: history and art, and merged them together to form Arquiste Parfumeur, his new line of luxury fragrances. With an immaculate attention to detail, Huber joined with 2 top Givaudan perfumers to create a range of 6 perfumes. Each scent is an olfactive interpretation of an exact moment in history that is meticulously researched and finely tuned.
I recently sat down with Carlos Huber for his first interview with The Perfume Magazine...
Fragrance has been introduced to me as a science and an art form.
What I know for sure is that the present and future of fragrance should be genderless. Perfume is about ﬁnding your own story. I have had the greatest luck to study with a great master perfumer who made me aware that perfume is a creative language that can tell a story - a story that anyone can wear, as long as you like it.
While I do understand that all cultures have their own ideas in terms of whatʼs feminine and whatʼs masculine, I think that this can be argued. In the ﬁrst place, gender can vary according to the experience of a speciﬁc culture. A ﬂoral scent that....
Drop The Gender,
Find Your Own Story
It’s no secret to anyone who’s ever read my musings that all of my life I’ve been a serious connoisseur of men. I love them, everything about them, their rough and tumbleness, their gentleness and definitely their simpleness. I really love the way that they smell when they’ve been working outdoors, a bit like wood, wind and trees. I love a man in a beautiful suit, smelling of ink and old money and I love the bohemian man who smells a bit musky, scented of espresso, old books and expensive cigarettes just as much. Add to that the scent of a beautiful wood guitar and I’m all yours...
As in a science fiction movie in which the main characters were reduced to a microscopic size and traveled in a submarine in the inside of the human body, I propose to you the magical adventure of crossing the bridge of the knowledge on the olfactory perception.
Imagine you that we are in a garden in springtime. We observe hundreds of thousands of odorant molecules floating in the air. They come in different shapes and sizes. Because of them at the end of our sensory excursion ...
The Author and former New York Times Scent Critic is presently the Curator of the brand-new Department of Olfactory Art at the Museum of Arts and Design (MAD) in New York City. The following video, published here at the request of Mr. Burr, was recorded at the TEDx Danubia Conference in Budapest, Hungary where he was recently a guest speaker.
MISSED THE PREVIOUS ISSUES OF THE PERFUME MAGAZINE?
2012 FIFI® AWARD “INDIE” CATEGORY "FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR" NOMINEE FORMS
If you are an Indie Perfumer, or know someone who is, you may enter in the new "Indie Category" for 2011 Fragrance Launches. All “indie” fragrances introduced in 2011 are eligible to enter the FiFi® Awards process. There will be one winner in the FiFi® “Indie” Category for Fragrance of the Year (Men’s, Women’s or Shared).
The finalists and the winner will be honored at the 2012 Elements Showcase on January 31st in New York City. The winner will receive the crystal FiFi® statuette as well as a congratulatory check in the amount of $10,000 from Givaudan Fragrances Corp. The winner will also be recognized at the 2012 FiFi® Awards Ceremony on Monday, May 21, 2012. Print and enter with office forms here...
The Perfumers Guild; John Bailey Fragrance Profiles
By Veronica Kavanagh
I was lucky enough to sample several of his perfumes, including his 2011 release, Perfumer’s Rose; Anniversary, which inspired by the 25th anniversary of Michael Edwards’ Fragrances of the World; and Queen of Sheba, which was inspired by Nigel St. John Groom’s book, “Sheba Revealed”. John’s rose perfumes are legendary and Perfumer’s Rose is exquisite...
At the other end of the olfactive spectrum is Queen of Sheba, one of the first Oudh perfumes made by a Western niche perfumer...
Queen of Sheba GIVEAWAY Inside...
Until the early 90’s, women who wore men’s fragrances, such as Dior’s Eau Savage and Homme, Annick Goutal’s Eau d’Hadrien and Guerlain’s Vetiver, were considered avant-garde. Yet the number of women trying (and buying) men’s scents for themselves, is growing at a fast pace.
THE LITTLE BOOK OF PERFUMES
The Hundred Classics
by Luca Turin &
by Raphaella Barkley
Mark David Boberick
Men’s Fragrances For Women
By Christine Lewandowski
Guerlain Exclusive Fragrance Experience with Marie Line Patry
USA Trunk Show Schedule
The Fragrance Foundation’s New On-Trend Educational Course; Top Notes
Do you Love fragrance? Want to know what industry insider’s know? Curious about what is currently a hot trend or what influenced fragrance in decades like the ‘50’s, ‘60’s,‘70’s?Then sign on for TopNotes, an exciting, fun new online educational course and resource developed specifically for those who want to keep on top of the most current information and trends. "Both industry insiders and consumers who have a passion for fragrance can keep their fingers on the pulse, tap into trends, scent styles and new notes. The course has collaborated with the best minds in the business to deliver up-to-the minute and comprehensive insights.”
Perfumer Shelley Waddington of EnVoyage Perfumes, releases three new perfumes; Eight, Titania and Go Ask Alice
TPM: You have said that your vision for your Havâne pour Homme was of “the tango; melting into a hot Caribbean love encounter”!
The inspiration for Havâne pour Homme was a fantasy drawn from a composite of memories and a stunningly beautiful painting of a couple dancing the tango - I wanted the smell of sex and mojitas and clean sweat...
Shelley Waddington has graciously given us a 1/8 oz bottle of Go Ask Alice EDP for our giveaway.
This new perfume brand from Italy focuses on a central element for all mankind: blood. A subject suffused with a mysterious and fascinating imagery, perfectly pairing life and death, science and legends. Blood is one of the most studied elements of the human body, and extensive researches revealed that it’s been constantly evolving during the millennia...
Pop Your Cork!
An Evening Presented by
The Fragrance Foundation
Wine, Chocolate, Fragrance!
All in one room. All on one night.
What a divine combination and the closest thing to heaven on earth that any mere mortal could experience. Last night at New York’s City Winery, where the downtown elite meet to sip, savor and some even to store the world’s finest vintages, The Fragrance Foundation hosted a wine, chocolate and fragrance pairing that had the audience swooning with sensorial delight...
"Real women reader" testers spritzed and sniffed every scent launched in the past year to find the best out there to win the Fragrance Awards.
SELF sorted 248 bottles into 26 scent categories according to their top/middle/bottom notes (citrus, floral, fruity, etc) Self tallied the results to unveil the top 26 winners. Within that you will find the best mood lifter, fresh scent, most boldly seductive scent, best make-a statement scent, youth in a bottle and more! You can view it in its entirety here thanks to Self Magazine!
Pedicab Pedicure highlights Bergdorf Goodman, New York City with Actress Gretchen Mol of HBO's "Boardwalk Empire" as she visits the CREED counter and praises Fleur de The Rose Bulgare in this new Vanity Fair video
The eco-luxe, niche fragrance line Roxana Illuminated Perfume introduces a green chypre natural perfume titled Hedera helix, the botanical name for Ivy. As part one of the sacred plants of the Celtic forest and part of the Tree Ogham this tenacious, evergreen features a botanical palette of leaves such as peach leaf absolute, violet leaf and rhododendron on a bed of
oakmoss and balsams. A fragrance with a modern, green
Hedera helix liquid and solid is available in as individual samples or in a set ($8.00 - $17.50), compact ($78), in the Perfume locket ($47) and 7g perfume extract ($175) Shop for Hedera helix here
I asked 6 top Fragrance Industry professionals to weigh-in on The State of the Men’s Fragrances. The diversity of this panel covers nearly every corner of Perfumery. Let me introduce the men…
Some of my long time favorites are Heritage by Guerlain, Original Santal by Creed and Ormonde Jayne's Zizan....
Judith Leiber Night Profile
By Raphaella Barkley
It has been said that Judith Leiber is the "Queen of the Minaudière". The inspiration for the fragrance was drawn from her famous and classic, Judith Leiber black Deco handbag.
I love, absolutely love, Judith Leiber Night perfume. Night is an opulent and rich oriental fragrance with a modern twist. It smells like “Hollywood Glamour” on me and radiates a rich exotic Oriental essence. It’s sexy and
I get a ton of compliments. When
I wear Night, I get the sense that there is a “starry luxurious cloak wrapped around me; warm and sensual”. Orientals seem to have that affect on me...
Occasionally, you happen upon a fragrance so perfect and well-constructed that it forever changes the way you think about every new fragrance that encounter after it. For me, that very thing recently happened with Xerjoff XJ 17/17 Homme.
Homme was created by Robertet perfumer Jacques Flori (Amouage Opus IV, Reminiscence Collection) in 2004, but only recently launched in the United States...
Can a fragrance be released in this market today and still attain legendary status?
Consider, if you will, this multi-billion dollar question:
If Guerlain Shalimar or Chanel No. 5 were released today, would they go on to become the legendary perfumes that they are right now?
Of course, no one knows. You see, Shalimar (1925) and No. 5 (1921) were released at a time when the world didn’t see over 1000 new fragrances every year. In the 1920s, when a new perfume was released, it practically made headlines. So how can a new fragrance of
"My first recollection of meeting Fragrance Author/Expert, Michael Edwards will forever be etched in my memory like a beautiful Lanvin stopper. I recall a tall tanned and elegant Gentleman in an off-white linen suit striding towards me. As we began our journey on scents...It was magic and anyone who is fortunate to hear him will also be enraptured...
Marian Bendeth; Global Fragrance Expert, Sixth Scents