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Aftelier Two New Perfumes
Co-Founder, creator and artist of A Dozen Roses, Sandy Cataldo, signing bottles
Aftelier Perfumes launches Oud Luban solid perfume and Aftelier Perfumes launches Secret Garden perfume and EDP spray
Oud Luban takes its inspiration from Theophile Gautier's Clarimonde, a story of extremes: austerity and opulence; sin and holiness; carnality and abstinence. Luban, the Urdu word for frankincense, means "the milk" which refers to the color of the finest quality frankincense – the milky tree sap that exudes from the cut bark. Oud, the dark, resinous and infected Aquilaria heartwood, is the most expensive essence in the world. To create the desired oud notes, eight different varieties are blended.
Oud Luban is a perfume of great highs and lows, with no middle notes. It opens with the fresh citrus top notes of the finest hojari frankincense, coupled with sweet incense and resinous notes of elemi and luban. This evolves onto the sweet balsamic notes of the faintly vanilla benzoin, the spicy balsamic opopanax, and the fine cognac-like notes of aged patchouli. Threading through the drydown, and softened by the resin, are the smoky choya ral and precious oud, which is intimate and softly animal like a lover's body. This perfume is perfect for layering with florals -- the oud brings an earthy richness that allows the florals to bloom on the skin. Oud Luban is available in a sterling silver case holding 1/4 oz. of solid perfume ($210) and 1 ml sample ($6) at www.aftelier.com
Top: elemi, orange terpenes, blood orange, frankincense CO2.
Base: oud, opopanax, choya ral, benzoin, aged patchouli.
Mandy Aftel is an award-winning all-natural perfumer and author. She creates each extraordinary Aftelier Perfumes fragrance by hand in small batches in her Berkeley, California studio.
Aftelier Perfumes launches Secret Garden perfume and EDP spray
Secret Garden was created during the Letters to A Fellow Perfumer series. This perfume was named after the 1910 novel by Frances Hodgson Burnett about a young girl who herself blossoms after she discovers a barren secret garden and brings it back to life. Like fitting a key in a lock, when you inhale Secret Garden, you enter a redolent and sensual wild garden. To create the heady and exotic floral experience, it includes two historical animal essences: very old civet bought from a retired perfumer and castoreum tinctured from the beaver.
Secret Garden opens into roses and wood brightened with mixed citrus. The jasmine sambac heart of the perfume, with its spicy indolic kick, paired with the jammy raspberry, lends the illusion of spice where there is none -- like a blind alley in the garden. This intertwines with voluptuous Turkish rose absolute and the watery gardenia aroma of blue lotus. Both the phantom spice and otherworldly blue lotus create a feeling of hidden mystery in this garden. The sumptuous balsamic base is rooted in beautiful deertongue (*not* an animal ingredient), which combines the sweet and powdery notes of tonka beans with the aromas of the countryside. Secret Garden is available in a 1/4 oz. bottle ($150), a 30 ml EDP spray ($150), a 2 ml Mini bottle ($45), and a sample size ($6) at www.aftelier.com
Top: bergamot, bois de rose, Geraniol, blood orange
Middle: jasmine sambac, raspberry (compounded isolate), Turkish rose, blue lotus
Base: civet, castoreum, vanilla, deer tongue, benzoin, aged patchouli
Open Holiday House and Sale
Come meet Mandy Dec. 9-11, 2011 - Holiday Sale